I’ve been gatekeeping this for two years – (accidentally). When we got back from Costa Rica, Spring break 2023, my review to my friends and family was a level of enthusiasm they had never witnessed – “FIFTEEN OUT OF TEN,” I exclaimed. I planned the whole thing (turns out I either love control or I should be a travel agent) because my itinerary was TOP NOTCH – full of core memories and extreme family bonding (and rest, don’t worry). But I shouldn’t take the credit – Costa Rica is amazing and I don’t think you can have a bad time there. After hearing my breakdown, so many of my friends begged me not to blog about it until they could repeat the same bookings, so I complied. And then time went on and it felt weird to write about it months later and then, well, I forgot. But as we leave for Belize this week I felt compelled to make the case for Central America AGAIN for those looking into going on future trips. Yo… it’s going to be a long one but it’s for those of you who actually might go so read every single word (and I didn’t intend on blogging about this trip so these photos are not exactly travel blog family level:)).
Day 0: Land In San Jose
Our flight was long from Portland, we transferred through LA with a 3-hour layover (12 hours total – not nothing). Once we arrived in San Jose, we stayed at a hotel near the airport that night since we didn’t get in til the evening. The Hilton was fine and super affordable ($120 for the night) and Brian picked up the pre-reserved car the next morning while the kids chowed down at the oddly delicious buffet. It was a 2-3 hour drive to Monteverde the next morning which was fascinating, if not super bumpy (you need four-wheel drive though).
Day 1: Travel To The Cloud Forest – Monteverde
We spent the first three nights in Monteverde, up in the cloud forest. Most people do a 1/2 jungle, 1/2 beach tour, and this is the jungle portion. This was said to be a “must-see” rainforest and so lush The word “unspoiled” rings through your head. My kids are still not enthusiastic hikers, but there was so much to do for elementary school-aged kids (and apparently if you are a birder you are in heaven – there were tropical birds everywhere!). We got in around 2 or 3 pm, had lunch, walked around the grounds (so pretty), sat in the hot tub, ate dinner by the pond, and went to sleep early so excited for the next day. It was so peaceful.
Where We Stayed In Monteverde – Hotel Belmar
There are a lot of places to stay, much more affordable I’m sure, but Hotel Belmar was where we chose after a lot of research and it was extremely perfect for us in every single way. It’s not flashy, yet it is nicely designed and so well-appointed, meeting all our needs but nothing superfluous. Every room was clad in pretty wood, had super comfortable beds and bedding. And while we didn’t have AC, the temperature at night was in the 60s and we woke to birds chirping, windows open. They grow most of their food on the property so the food was incredible. But that’s the thing about Costa Rica, they don’t even need to say “farm to table” because almost everything is. They have super strict eco-tourism and organic growing laws so it’s just a really environmentally healthy country, making the food so freaking tasty even when raw and lightly seasoned. Literally every bite we had for 8 days was incredible. Hotel Belmar was around $400 a night for two queen beds (at the time) and it felt appropriately priced. There was a hiking trail on the property through streams and small waterfalls, yoga in the morning (which was too beginner for me but lovely), easy transfers anywhere we wanted to go, a delicious juice/smoothie bar, a big hot tub room you could book for your family, a pond-side bar/restaurant with live music as well as their nicer restaurant with a gorgeous view.
The hotel was sold out when we were there but never crowded and the service was perfect. We were there in March which was cooler at night but warm during the day, but had we gone during the summer we probably would have wished they had a pool (we didn’t at all). Our experience was so lovely in every way. We went to bed exhausted at 9 pm full of fresh food, a couple of cocktails, and while sharing a room with our kids might sound less ideal (without TVs) we all just read our books and fell asleep so early and satisfied. I will say that I don’t know if it’s as great for toddlers, not because it would be negative in any way but because it’s pretty vertical and less to do for that age than a resort-style hotel near the beach since they can’t zipline (there are lots of Airbnbs in the area though!). Zero sponsorship or discount and 100% love for this hotel.
Day 2: Ziplining + Animal Sanctuaries
(LOL – those were shots for the souvenir card, not actually ziplining there) Despite an extreme fear of heights, I forced myself to disassociate, strap on a smile and a harness, and fly (all in the name of bonding with my kids). And listen… there is a reason they do it on The Bachelor – that level of collective fear and adrenaline is extremely bonding (neurons that fire together wire together!). The dopamine you get when you land without dying makes you collectively celebrate being alive!! Of course, our kids had to be strapped together because in Costa Rica you are going from mountain top to mountain top, at times over a mile and so high up you’d vomit if you thought about it. They were too light to go solo, with the threat of being “stuck in the middle” and they did get stuck a couple of times but close enough to the end that I was ok as the guys came out and dragged them to the end but yes, I was totally panicking while also still disassociating). Did I enjoy it? I mean, no, not while doing it, but it was so bonding and wild and exhilarating for all of us and I’m so glad I didn’t let my fear stop me from having that experience with them. I will say that unlike being on an edge of a cliff, you are double carabinered into your harness and while it was enormously terrifying I actually wasn’t scared of dying, making it doable. YOU HAVE TO DO IT. (Update: this has helped my fear of heights a lot, not on edges of cliffs but I’m way better on gondolas now or even skyscrapers that were once very triggering). We went to Selvatura and it was fantastic. Also, they have a suspension bridge route if you didn’t want to zipline but wanted to hike around and walk on the bridges. Something for everyone and extremely well done with super friendly guides (bring cash for tips!).
Sloth And Butterfly Sanctuaries
After ziplining we visited the butterfly and sloth sanctuary. Both were sweet, fun, and calm and our then 7 and 9-year-olds were thrilled when butterflies landed on their fingers or they came face to face with a sweet sloth. These are short 1-hour long situations and rather humid but lovely, affordable, and a great memory.
Day 3: Tree Climbing Park + Afternoon Farm Visit
Day 3 started at a tree climbing park which was so fun for the kids as they got to climb so high and repel down (with a short ziplining tour, too). It’s super safe and similar to a climbing gym (but on your own). You hike from one to another, 10 total. I only did a few (they were redundant) but the kids loved it and did all 10. We moved our bodies, it was challenging, and a great memory. We also ziplined there but on a much smaller course than day 1. My email says we went to Sky Adventure Arboreal Park, but I couldn’t find it online (I think maybe Treetopia?). We loved it.
Organic Farm Visit
In the afternoon we went to the farm that was associated with the hotel (where they grew all their meat and vegetables). I’m sure there are other cheaper farm visits that are great but we were smitten with the people and food at Hotel Belmar so we did their 3-4 hour tour which was SO GOOD. We fed all the animals, went horseback riding, made sugarcane drinks, and learned about organic farming in a way the kids understood. It was so stunning, they were so friendly and we ate delicious homemade cheeses and sweets. If you stay at the hotel I believe you get a discount (it was $95 for adults, $75 for kids, and lasts 3.5 hours). We found it absolutely worth every penny (speaking of bringing cash to tip! We did $20 per person which might be too much but if you can afford it, do it as it all goes to local lovely guides).
That night we had food and drinks down by the big pond with live music while the kids ran around on the lawn and Brian and I literally held hands and talked. It was so peaceful, dark, and starry (little light pollution). We were in HEAVEN. Also, there are so many fruity non-soda mocktails in Costa Rica so the kids LOVED happy hour with us every night:)
Day 4: Drive To Kintari Glamping Resort
Our drive to our next beach destination was going to be 3 1/2 hours so I booked a night at Kintiri Glamping Resort which was an adults-only glamping resort on the top of the mountain going about 45 minutes out of our way. For our last morning at Hotel Belmar, I did yoga and we all went on a hike on the property (a not to miss – creek, waterfalls, so easy). We needed to kill some time after check out before we set out on our drive so we went to a chocolate farm tour, which was a big miss (we almost left 1/2 way through). We then drove 2 1/2 hours to Kintiri (which had just opened so they allowed us to come midweek for one night even though we had kids). It’s AMAZING. Like the honeymoon of your dreams amazing. Geodesic domes with infinity pools, above-ground pools and saunas, and really good food. And y’all these places aren’t expensive – like $250/night at the time. The kids were blown away sleeping in a dome. I will say the sheer elevation made me nervous (again, I have a fear of heights and love looking at trees over an expansive view). Oh, and it was super hard to find (but they were really responsive via WhatsApp). The point is – if you don’t have kids definitely look into it as they were building it out even more when they were there. LOVED. I don’t think you’d need to make this stop though, going straight from Monteverde to Isla Chiquita wasn’t that long so very very doable (and perhaps a better use of time than the 2 hours out of your way up the mountain).
Day 5: Drive To La Isla Chiquita – The Most Magical Glamping Resort Ever
After 2 or so hours of driving, we arrived at the beach where we had fresh fish at a very mom-and-pop restaurant, waiting for our boat (the above photos were of that, not the island). We waded with our stuff above our heads, shoes in hand to get on a little dingy as they took us to our island. It was already pure magic. We pulled up at Isla Chiquita with the friendliest staff and not an inch of cement, tropical drinks immediately in hand, and charming signs with arrows everywhere. It felt like we were stepping back in time – the sense that it felt so off the grid but strangely luxurious. We checked into our tent (with plumbing and electrical, but no AC) and immediately noticed all the monkeys in the trees. Families of them. We stayed in the master suite for the first night because ours wasn’t available yet. The 360 views were incredible and it had its own plunge pool. Their site does a great job of showing it, but nothing will match seeing it in person. That suite was $500 a night, whereas the ones with two double beds (that we stayed two nights in) were $230 a night – and while the master suite is awesome, the whole island experience is so magical that we were just as happy in the normal tent (fun to do both). Honestly, it was worth twice that much if you ask me. The first night we booked the bioluminescence tour after dinner which blew our kid’s minds as we floated around the island in the pitch dark with cocktails and mocktails.
The Most Magical Glamping Resort Ever – La Isla Chiquita
These photos literally do ZERO justice to the resort – if you are interested please check out their website and your mind will be blown. Honestly best 4 days of my life there.
Day 6: Out At Sea, Snorkeling
Big snorkel day! We booked a tour to take us out to the islands and spent the day in the water with our kid’s minds blown seeing all the tropical fish. The crew was awesome (all booked through La Isla Chiquita – they make it super easy). We explored multiple islands and bays and they had a lot of entertaining anecdotes. The only note is that we didn’t bring money and they dropped us off at a beach that had commerce and could have bought drinks and food so always bring money (they provided lunch on the boat, but for treats, drinks, and souvenirs). It was perfect. We were out til 2-3 pm then came back and sat by the pool and read, ate delicious dinner at the open-air restaurant, and fell asleep early and satiated to the sounds of monkeys in the trees.
Day 7: Catching Our Dinner
Fishing! We booked 9 am morning fishing without lines, where the guides took us out on a tiny boat and taught us how to fish for our dinner (which we ate that night to varying stars). Such a memory. So fun. The second half of the day was again by the pool while Brian and I took turns getting massages at their sweet little open-air spa. Our last night was incredible. I wasn’t QUITE ready to go home (which says a lot for me) but we had done all you could do here. There isn’t a real beach here so you kinda have to book the excursions or you are just hanging in a hammock or by the pool. The staff is incredible and the food is so good. The amenities are simple and perfect. And while I did get stung by a baby scorpion that was hidden in a towel they had gotten from the mainland (!!) that isn’t typical, I promise! And it was very exciting although, we didn’t tell the kids til after we were home (again that’s not typical, just a funny anecdote so don’t let it color your perception – it stung, fell on the ground, and then I had a big swollen bump and was fine.)
All In All Some Costa Rica Facts:
Some of the questions I think you might have if you are curious about Costa Rica:
Did You Feel Safe?
YES. Tourism is their industry (for better or worse) so what I’ve heard is that there is a collective effort to make sure their reputation as being so family-friendly and safe so it stays intact. Thus the push towards eco-tourism so that it doesn’t deplete their environment. The people are incredibly nice, with “Pura Vida” being their mantra (pure life – meaning just enjoy life!). The vibe is full of happiness, gratefulness, and just so welcoming. I’m not naive to the fact that we are still Americans coming to a developing country, depleting resources for our temporary pleasure. Which is why if you can afford to stay at the more eco resorts that are sustainable/organic and pay their staff well you should, and please bring a lot of cash to tip the locals. Tourism is depleting, full stop. It’s the job of the wealthier to not be cheap if we can afford to be generous. Also don’t be an asshole, ok? This isn’t White Lotus.
Is It Ok To Speak English?
Sure! But also maybe try Spanish? Most people in hospitality or tours do speak English, but if you can learn some basic polite terms that could be good and is respectful. I still speak conversational Spanish from working in restaurants for so long so the kids were super impressed while I showed off. But many people go without knowing any and do just fine!
Do You Need To Book Everything In Advance?
Yes to the good hotels, especially with multiple kids (there are more couples hotel availability for sure). I booked them all in August (many good ones are booked less than 4 months in advance). We also booked the rental car in advance because we were warned about the lack of four-wheel drive cars, and while I booked all the excursions in advance we didn’t need to at all (but it made me feel safe).
Bring cash to tip (in 1s, 5s and 10s and they won’t accept if they are torn or imperfect so keep them pristine). Wear breathable clothes with layers and think Tevas or Keens. This is not White Lotus – no need for heels or “fits”. I didn’t bring enough lightweight clothes for humidity and ended up wearing the same dumb cotton shirt and linen shorts every night at dinner once on Chiquita because my jean shorts were so claustrophobic. Bring bug spray and sunscreen (or buy in the bigger towns – they aren’t easy to find everywhere). Also, if you are allergic to mosquitos like me you might need to bring from America as they only sell organic stuff (sorry, I know that is problematic but I was being EATEN ALIVE with hundreds of bites until a nice American shared their deet with me and I finally had some relief).
That Itinerary Sounds Intense! Was It Too Busy? Too Much?
LOL. No. Well, not for us. Because Costa Rica is not heavily populated, with little traffic and few crowds (at least when we were there) navigating was so easy and never depleting. We started our days early so there were never lines and spent the second half of every day either by the pool or beach. I read 3 novels if that tells you much. We didn’t go to restaurants that required reservations that we couldn’t get, but again we didn’t stay at big more “American-style” resorts. Our days were so full but not annoying, rich but not overwhelming, active but not exhausting. I think the common denominator is nature – nature is so calming. And the fact that they care so much about the environment, it’s inherently minimal and the food is filling but not heavy. All the locals are so lovely and kind that it feels like a big warm hug. We felt so grateful to be there enjoying their culture and doing our best to contribute to their local economy while having truly the best 8 days of our lives. Thank you, Costa Rica 🙂 Pura Vida!
